The Best Non-Technical Peak in Nepal for Beginner Climbers
The Best Non-Technical Peak in Nepal for Beginner Climbers
Modified on Jan 3, 2023
Are you ready to embark on an adventurous mountaineering expedition in the Himalayas of Nepal? Then this is your chance to join our expert team of Sherpas on our Mera peak climbing 2023 spring/autumn endeavor.
Mera peak is one of the most loved peaks by avid mountaineers. Whether you are a beginner or a professional climber, Mera peak climbing offers an exhilarating experience. The beautiful river valleys, picturesque villages, unique cultural heritage of the locals, remote environment, raw alpine moments, stunning mountains, and challenges you overcome during the journey make the Mera peak climb the best mountain adventure in Nepal. This amazing climbing trip begins from Lukla which is the gate way to Everest Base Camp Trek, one of most popluar trekking in Nepal.
The non-technical climbing route makes Mera peak climbing very appealing. Standing at 6,476 meters (21,246 t) from the sea level in the hidden Hinku Valley, Khumbu region, eastern Nepal, Mera peak is classed as the highest trekking peak in Nepal. There are three summits of Mera peak- Mera North (6,476 m), Mera Central (6,461 m), and Mera South (6,065 m). During the climb, you will be scaling Mera North, which is the tallest among all three.
Given the low technical dangers, apart from a few small crevasses that our mountain guide will help you cross, Mera peak climbing is a perfect way to begin your mountaineering adventure. Our team provides entering-level pre-climbing training before you push toward the summit. You will learn to use glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending and descending, etc.
As the blog unfolds, you'll get to know more in detail about what it is like to climb Mera peak, what kind of preparation you have to do, and many more.
Mera Peak Climbing Two Phases- Trekking & Climbing
We have divided our Mera peak climbing in Nepal into two phases- trekking and climbing. The starting and ending part of the expedition involves trekking.
Phase I: Trekking
Phase I is all about trekking and acclimatizing. The journey begins with a short 35 to 40 minutes flight from Kathmandu airport or Manthali airport to Lukla. It is the trailhead. From Lukla, we begin trekking toward the Hinku valley through the unpopular Makalu Barun National Park. You will enter the park on the way from Ningsow (2,863 m) to Chhatra Khola (2,800 m). The trail is secluded and passes via pristine forests of rhododendron and Sherpa villages.
On the day you'll land at Lukla airport, trek to Chhuthang (3,020 m). It is a gradual walk following forested foothills. From Chhuthang, trek on a steep route that leads to Zatrwa La Pass (4,600 m) and descends to Thuli Kharka via Chattre to spend the night. The trail then continues to Kothe, and further following the Hinku riverbed you will reach Gondishung. Visit an ancient monastery, Lungsumgba Gompa, and trek to Thagnak.
Khare is our base camp on Mera peak at 5,000 m. It is a small settlement with a few tea houses where you will be spending the night and also taking an acclimatization day.
Phase II: Climbing
Our climbing phase begins once we reach the Mera peak base camp, Khare. During the acclimatization period, our team leader will give you pre-climbing training. Above the base camp, we'll build a high camp at 5,779 meters. It is the last camp before the Mera summit. On the day of the summit push, you will leave the high camp around 2:00 AM to 3:00 AM. Following the footsteps of our Sherpa climbers, you will reach the summit and return to Khare to spend the night.
Things You Should Know About Mera Peak Climbing in Nepal 2023
Mera Peak Climbing Difficulty
Mera Peak is classified as a trekking peak and is considered to be of moderate difficulty. However, it should not be underestimated, as it does require a good level of fitness and acclimatization. The route to the summit involves a combination of trekking and mountaineering, with some sections requiring the use of fixed ropes.
The climbing route follows a series of rocky ridges and snowfields, with some steep sections that may require the use of crampons and ice axes. The final ascent to the summit involves a steep climb up a snowy slope and can be quite challenging in adverse weather conditions.
Mera Peak Climbing Distance
The distance of the trek to Mera Peak Base Camp depends on the starting point, but the typical route from Lukla to Base Camp is approximately 80 kilometers (50 miles). The distance from Base Camp to the summit is approximately 5 kilometers (3 miles).
Mera Peak Climbing Best Time
The best time for climbing Mera Peak is during the autumn season, from October to November. During this time, the weather is generally clear and stable, with less chance of snow and adverse weather conditions.
The spring season, from March to May, is also a good time to climb Mera Peak, with warmer temperatures and clear skies. However, there is a higher risk of snow and avalanche conditions during this time.
Mera Peak Climbing Support
With us, Scenic Nepal Treks, you will climb Mera peak with an experienced team of mountaineers who have climbed and led several groups to the summit of Mera peak in the past. Our on-field crew will support you during the trek and climb. The porters will carry heavy luggage. Above the base camp, there will be kitchen staff and other team members who will set the tents and make it home for a night.
We work with licensed and certified mountain guides to run our peak climbing in Nepal. They are highly reliable individuals who will keep you safe during mountaineering. They will fix ropes and make sure you are ready to cross any difficult sections. You can rely on them.
Mera Peak Climbing Accommodation
Accommodation during the trek to Mera Peak is typically in the form of tea houses or lodges, which offer simple rooms with bunk beds and shared facilities. At Mera Peak High Camp, we use alpine tents to spend the night. The tents are set by our supporting crew.
Mera Peak Climbing Meal
During the trek to Mera Peak, meals are generally provided by the tea houses or lodges along the way. The menu typically consists of Nepali and Tibetan dishes, such as dal bhat (a rice and lentil dish), momos (Tibetan dumplings), and thukpa (noodle soup). Vegetarian options are usually available. At the high camp, we will either take packed food from base camp or kitchen staff will join us to prepare & cook meals for us.
What To Expect During The Mera Peak Climbing
If you see our Mera peak climbing itinerary, we have night stops at several remote mountain villages before we reach the Mera peak base camp. To reach the base camp, you have two options, either trek for four days or book a helicopter flight from Kathmandu or Lukla to the base camp.
Our Mera peak climbing itinerary follows the trekking route. As you walk by the villages, you get to experience the mountain lifestyle and get to see the locals doing their daily chores. The trekking part gives you a good insight into the culture and traditions of the villagers. Likewise, you will also come across a wide range of flora and fauna.
The trail offers stunning mountain views. You will get to see five out of ten world's highest mountains - Everest (8,848.48 m), Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), Makalu (8,463 m),Cho Oyu (8,188 m), and Lhotse (8,516). The trail winds through lush rhododendron forests, crossing thrilling suspension bridges and passes by lovely waterfalls & streams. The landscapes you get to see are phenomenal.
Tips For Successful Mera Peak Climbing
Get in shape:
Physical fitness is crucial for successful mountaineering, especially for long and strenuous climbs like Mera Peak. Make sure you are physically fit and have trained for the demands of the climb.
Choose the right equipment:
Proper gear is essential for any successful climb. Make sure you have all the necessary equipment, including proper clothing, boots, crampons, ice axe, and other technical gear.
Learn proper technique:
Proper technique is important for safety and efficiency on the mountain. Make sure you have learned the proper techniques for climbing, belaying, and using technical gear before attempting the climb.
Altitude sickness can be a primary concern on high peaks like Mera Peak. Make sure you give yourself enough time to acclimatize to the altitude before attempting the summit.
Hire a reputable climbing company like us:
A qualified and experienced trekking/climbing company can be an invaluable asset on your journey in the Himalayas, especially on a challenging activity like Mera peak climbing. Make sure you hire a reputable company with a good track record like ours. Join our 14 Days Mera Peak Climbing 2023
Follow a good nutrition plan:
Proper nutrition is crucial for maintaining energy and staying healthy on the mountain. Make sure you are fueling your body properly with a balanced diet.
Dehydration can be a significant concern at high altitudes, so it is essential to stay hydrated throughout the climb. Make sure you are drinking plenty of fluids, especially water.
Take breaks and pace yourself: Mountaineering is a physically demanding activity, and it is crucial to pace yourself and take breaks as needed to avoid exhaustion.
Know your limits:
You have to be honest with yourself about your abilities and know your limits. Don't push yourself beyond what you are capable of, and be prepared to turn back if necessary.
Checklist for Mera Climbing
Important Documents and items
Valid passport, 2 extra passport-size photos, airline tickets
Separate photocopies of passport, visa form (easily obtained at Kathmandu airport), proof of insurance
Dollars in cash for purchasing a Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport
Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards)
Personal Climbing Gears
Tape slings (2)
Screwgate karabiners (2 locks, 2 unlock)
Plastic mountaineering boots
( Note: You can rent all the necessary personal climbing gears at Khare at US$ 120-150 which includs everyting you need )
Group Climbing Gear ( Will be Provided by Scenic Nepal Treks)
Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions
Warm hat that covers your ears (wool or synthetic)
Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
Sunglasses with UV protection
Prescription sunglasses (if required)
Polypropylene shirts (1 half sleeve and 2 long sleeves)
I, Dipendra is an Adventure Specialist and founder of Scenic Nepal Treks and working in Mountain Travel and Tourism for more than a decade.
I have been leading different Hiking groups from all around the World to the Himalayas including Everest Base Camp, Annapurna Base Camp, and many more. Follow me for my adventure on Facebook and Instagram