• Modified on Feb 8, 2023

Are you ready to embark on an adventurous mountaineering expedition in the Himalayas of Nepal? Then this is your chance to join our expert team of Sherpas on our Mera peak climbing 2023 spring/autumn endeavor. 

Mera peak is one of the most loved peaks by avid mountaineers. Whether you are a beginner or a professional climber, Mera peak climbing offers an exhilarating experience. The beautiful river valleys, picturesque villages, unique cultural heritage of the locals, remote environment, raw alpine moments, stunning mountains, and challenges you overcome during the journey make the Mera peak climb the best mountain adventure in Nepal. This amazing climbing trip begins from Lukla which is the gate way to Everest Base Camp Trek, one of most popluar trekking in Nepal.

The non-technical climbing route makes Mera peak climbing very appealing. Standing at 6,476 meters (21,246 t) from the sea level in the hidden Hinku Valley, Khumbu region, eastern Nepal, Mera peak is classed as the highest trekking peak in Nepal. There are three summits of Mera peak- Mera North (6,476 m), Mera Central (6,461 m), and Mera South (6,065 m). During the climb, you will be scaling Mera North, which is the tallest among all three. 

mera peak climbing
Route to Mera peak is easier compare to other climbing in Nepal 

Given the low technical dangers, apart from a few small crevasses that our mountain guide will help you cross, Mera peak climbing is a perfect way to begin your mountaineering adventure. Our team provides entering-level pre-climbing training before you push toward the summit. You will learn to use glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending and descending, etc. 

As the blog unfolds, you'll get to know more in detail about what it is like to climb Mera peak, what kind of preparation you have to do, and many more. 

We also have other beginner-friendly peak climbing packages that you can check out: Island Peak Climbing and Pisang Peak Climbing

Table of Contents

Mera Peak Climbing Two Phases- Trekking & Climbing

We have divided our Mera peak climbing in Nepal into two phases- trekking and climbing. The starting and ending part of the expedition involves trekking. 

Phase I: Trekking

Phase I is all about trekking and acclimatizing. The journey begins with a short 35 to 40 minutes flight from Kathmandu airport or Manthali airport to Lukla. It is the trailhead. From Lukla, we begin trekking toward the Hinku valley through the unpopular Makalu Barun National Park. You will enter the park on the way from Ningsow (2,863 m) to Chhatra Khola (2,800 m). The trail is secluded and passes via pristine forests of rhododendron and Sherpa villages. 

Mera Peak climbing
Enroute to Khare, Mera peak 

On the day you'll land at Lukla airport, trek to Chhuthang (3,020 m). It is a gradual walk following forested foothills. From Chhuthang, trek on a steep route that leads to Zatrwa La Pass (4,600 m) and descends to Thuli Kharka via Chattre to spend the night. The trail then continues to Kothe, and further following the Hinku riverbed you will reach Gondishung. Visit an ancient monastery, Lungsumgba Gompa, and trek to Thagnak.

Khare is our base camp on Mera peak at 5,000 m. It is a small settlement with a few tea houses where you will be spending the night and also taking an acclimatization day. 

Phase II: Climbing

Our climbing phase begins once we reach the Mera peak base camp, Khare. During the acclimatization period, our team leader will give you pre-climbing training. Above the base camp, we'll build a high camp at 5,779 meters. It is the last camp before the Mera summit. On the day of the summit push, you will leave the high camp around 2:00 AM to 3:00 AM. Following the footsteps of our Sherpa climbers, you will reach the summit and return to Khare to spend the night.

Lukla
Town of Lukla, Your gateway to Mera Peak. After 30 minutes of thrilling flight from Kathmandu takes you to this amazing town. 

Things You Should Know About Mera Peak Climbing in Nepal 2023

Mera Peak Climbing Difficulty

Mera Peak is classified as a trekking peak and is considered to be of moderate difficulty. However, it should not be underestimated, as it does require a good level of fitness and acclimatization. The route to the summit involves a combination of trekking and mountaineering, with some sections requiring the use of fixed ropes.

The climbing route follows a series of rocky ridges and snowfields, with some steep sections that may require the use of crampons and ice axes. The final ascent to the summit involves a steep climb up a snowy slope and can be quite challenging in adverse weather conditions.

 

Mera Peak Climbing Distance

The distance of the trek to Mera Peak Base Camp depends on the starting point, but the typical route from Lukla to Base Camp is approximately 80 kilometers (50 miles). The distance from Base Camp to the summit is approximately 5 kilometers (3 miles).

Best Boots for Mera Peak climbing
Recommended Boots for Mera Peak climbing 

Mera Peak Climbing Best Time

The best time for climbing Mera Peak is during the autumn season, from October to November. During this time, the weather is generally clear and stable, with less chance of snow and adverse weather conditions.

The spring season, from March to May, is also a good time to climb Mera Peak, with warmer temperatures and clear skies. However, there is a higher risk of snow and avalanche conditions during this time.

Mera Peak Climbing Support

With us, Scenic Nepal Treks, you will climb Mera peak with an experienced team of mountaineers who have climbed and led several groups to the summit of Mera peak in the past. Our on-field crew will support you during the trek and climb. The porters will carry heavy luggage. Above the base camp, there will be kitchen staff and other team members who will set the tents and make it home for a night. 

We work with licensed and certified mountain guides to run our peak climbing in Nepal. They are highly reliable individuals who will keep you safe during mountaineering. They will fix ropes and make sure you are ready to cross any difficult sections. You can rely on them. 

Mera Peak Climbing Accommodation

Accommodation during the trek to Mera Peak is typically in the form of tea houses or lodges, which offer simple rooms with bunk beds and shared facilities. At Mera Peak High Camp, we use alpine tents to spend the night. The tents are set by our supporting crew. 

Teahouse and One of our Good Guide Mr. Jagat 

Mera Peak Climbing Meal

During the trek to Mera Peak, meals are generally provided by the tea houses or lodges along the way. The menu typically consists of Nepali and Tibetan dishes, such as dal bhat (a rice and lentil dish), momos (Tibetan dumplings), and thukpa (noodle soup). Vegetarian options are usually available. At the high camp, we will either take packed food from base camp or kitchen staff will join us to prepare & cook meals for us. 

Accommodation mera peak
Your Tea House Accomodation 

What To Expect During The Mera Peak Climbing 

If you see our Mera peak climbing itinerary, we have night stops at several remote mountain villages before we reach the Mera peak base camp. To reach the base camp, you have two options, either trek for four days or book a helicopter flight from Kathmandu or Lukla to the base camp.

Our Mera peak climbing itinerary follows the trekking route. As you walk by the villages, you get to experience the mountain lifestyle and get to see the locals doing their daily chores. The trekking part gives you a good insight into the culture and traditions of the villagers. Likewise, you will also come across a wide range of flora and fauna. 

Mera peak climbing
A view from Mera Peak 

The trail offers stunning mountain views. You will get to see five out of ten world's highest mountains - Everest (8,848.48 m), Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), Makalu (8,463 m),Cho Oyu (8,188 m), and Lhotse (8,516). The trail winds through lush rhododendron forests, crossing thrilling suspension bridges and passes by lovely waterfalls & streams. The landscapes you get to see are phenomenal.

Tips For Successful Mera Peak Climbing 

Get in shape:

Physical fitness is crucial for successful mountaineering, especially for long and strenuous climbs like Mera Peak. Make sure you are physically fit and have trained for the demands of the climb.

Choose the right equipment:

Proper gear is essential for any successful climb. Make sure you have all the necessary equipment, including proper clothing, boots, crampons, ice axe, and other technical gear.

Learn proper technique:

Proper technique is important for safety and efficiency on the mountain. Make sure you have learned the proper techniques for climbing, belaying, and using technical gear before attempting the climb.

Acclimatize properly:

Altitude sickness can be a primary concern on high peaks like Mera Peak. Make sure you give yourself enough time to acclimatize to the altitude before attempting the summit.

Hire a reputable climbing company like us:

A qualified and experienced trekking/climbing company can be an invaluable asset on your journey in the Himalayas, especially on a challenging activity like Mera peak climbing. Make sure you hire a reputable company with a good track record like ours. Join our 14 Days Mera Peak Climbing 2023

Follow a good nutrition plan:

Proper nutrition is crucial for maintaining energy and staying healthy on the mountain. Make sure you are fueling your body properly with a balanced diet.

Stay hydrated:

Dehydration can be a significant concern at high altitudes, so it is essential to stay hydrated throughout the climb. Make sure you are drinking plenty of fluids, especially water.

Take breaks and pace yourself: Mountaineering is a physically demanding activity, and it is crucial to pace yourself and take breaks as needed to avoid exhaustion.

Know your limits:

You have to be honest with yourself about your abilities and know your limits. Don't push yourself beyond what you are capable of, and be prepared to turn back if necessary.

Checklist for Mera Climbing 

Important Documents and items 

  • Valid passport, 2 extra passport-size photos, airline tickets
  • Separate photocopies of passport, visa form (easily obtained at Kathmandu airport), proof of insurance
  • Dollars in cash for purchasing a Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport
  • Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards)

Personal Climbing Gears

  • Ice axe

  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • Tape slings (2)
  • Screwgate karabiners (2 locks, 2 unlock)
  • Descender/eight-figure
  • Plastic mountaineering boots
  • Ascender/Jhumar
  • Helmet
  • (Climbing Boots)

( Note: You can rent all the necessary personal climbing gears at Khare  at US$ 120-150 which includs everyting  you need )

Group Climbing Gear ( Will be Provided by Scenic Nepal Treks)

  • Snow bar*

  • Rope
  • Ice hammer
  • Ice screw
  • Gloves Sample

Head

  • Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions
  • Warm hat that covers your ears (wool or synthetic)
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Sunglasses with UV protection
  • Prescription sunglasses (if required)

Upper Body

  • Polypropylene shirts (1 half sleeve and 2 long sleeves)
  • Light and expedition-weight thermal tops
  • Fleece wind-stopper jacket or pullover
  • Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
  • Down vest and/or jacket *
  • Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable

Hands

  • 1 pair of lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • 1 pair of lightweight wool or fleece gloves
  • 1 pair of mittens; consists of 1 Gore-Tex over mitt matched, waterproof, polar-fleece mitt liner

Lower Body

  • Non-cotton underwear briefs
  • 1 pair of hiking shorts
  • 1 pair of hiking trousers
  • 1 pair of lightweight thermal bottoms
  • 1 pair of fleece or woolen trousers
  • 1 pair of waterproof shell pants, breathable fabric

Feet

  • 2 pairs of thin, lightweight inner socks
  • 2 pairs of heavy poly or wool socks
  • 1 pair of hiking boots with spare laces (sturdy soles, water resistant, ankle support, “broken in”)
  • 1 pair of trainers or running shoes and/or sandals
  • Cotton socks
  • Gaiters

Sleeping

  • 1 sleeping bag -30 degree centigrade
  • Fleece sleeping bag liner

Rucksack and Travel Bags

  • Climbing Sleeping Bags ( -40C)- Need to rent at Chukung/Dingboche before we climb.
  • Daypack/backpack of 35 to 50 liters for carrying your valuables, should have good shoulder padding
  • Small padlocks for duffel-kit bags
  • 2 large waterproof rucksack covers (optional)

Medical

  • Small, personal first-aid kit (simple and light)
  • Aspirin, first-aid tape, and plasters (Band-Aids)
  • 1 skin-blister repair kit
  • Anti-diarrhea pills
  • Anti-headache pills
  • Cough and/or cold medicine
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox or Acetazolamide
  • Stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc. Note: Do not bring sleeping pills as they are a respiratory depressant!
  • Water purification tablets or the water filter
  • 1 set of earplugs
  • Extra pair of prescription glasses, contact lens supplies

Practical Items

  • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing-repair kit
  • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box of matches
  • 1 compass or GPS(optional)
  • 1 alarm clock/watch
  • 1 digital camera with extra cards and batteries
  • Large Ziplocs
  • 2 water bottles (1 liter each)
  • 1 small folding knife
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks

Toiletries

  • 1 medium-sized quick-drying towel
  • Toothbrush/paste (preferably biodegradable)
  • Multi-purpose soap (preferably biodegradable)
  • Deodorants
  • Nail clippers
  • Face and body moisturizer
  • Female hygiene products
  • Small mirror
  • Personal Hygiene
  • Wet wipes (baby wipes)
  • Tissue /toilet roll
  • Anti-bacterial hand wash

 

Tips to avoid Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS):

  • Acclimatization: After 1000m ascent stay one more night for acclimatization
  • Do not make rapid ascent
  • No alcohol, no sleeping pills, no smoking, no sex
  • Drink more: about 3-4 liters day-clean water (boiled, filtered or medicated), tea, coffee, soup, and juice
  • No heavy backpacks
  • Climb higher, always sleep lower Ascent less than 300m a day above 3.000m of altitude
  • Everyday Drink 3/4 Ltr water, Eat well and regularly
  • Wear proper warm cloth while you are in high altitude.
  • Be aware of wind prevention.
  • If you have mild symptoms, do not proceed higher. Take aspirin tablets. If you have worsening symptoms, go down immediately.
  • Do not leave your team member behind unattended

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dipendra Phuyal

Dipendra Phuyal

I, Dipendra is an Adventure Specialist and founder of Scenic Nepal Treks and working in Mountain Travel and Tourism for more than a decade.

I have been leading different Hiking groups from all around the World to the Himalayas including Everest Base Camp, Annapurna Base Camp, and many more.  Follow  me for my adventure on Facebook and Instagram